Munich from a Hamburger's perspective

2025-06-1520:55131124mertbulan.com

A first-time visitor from Hamburg reflects on Munich's royal roots, museums, and surprising contrasts between two of Germany's most iconic cities.

Over the long weekend, thanks to Whit Monday being a public holiday in Germany, I decided to visit a friend who lives in Munich. I spent about three and a half days there and thought it would be a good idea to share my thoughts. I saw a lot during my stay, and since I live in Hamburg, I naturally started comparing the two cities. There are quite a few differences.

Before I go into the details, I should mention that I’ve been living in Hamburg for seven years, and this was my first time in Bavaria. Besides Munich, I’ve also been to Berlin and Magdeburg, but Munich gave me a very different impression. It felt worth writing about. I know German history and how divided the country used to be, so it shouldn’t be a surprise to see these differences. But still, I think people don’t talk about them enough. That’s why I think it’s a good idea to visit both Hamburg and Munich to really notice them. I’m not trying to say that one city is better than the other. This is just my personal take on what makes each place special. If you’re trying to decide where to live, keep in mind that I’m very biased towards Hamburg, so this might not be the most balanced view.

House of Wittelsbach

To understand the differences between Hamburg and Munich, I think it’s important to look at the history of both cities. When you visit them, you can really see how their past shaped what they are today.

The Wittelsbach family was a Bavarian dynasty that ruled Bavaria from 1180 to 1918. The blue and white pattern used in Bavaria today comes from the coat of arms of the Wittelsbach family. That light blue color is all over the city — you see it on the trams, street signs, and even on house number plates. Around the same time the Wittelsbachs rose to power, in 1189, Hamburg was given the status of a Free Imperial City by Frederick I “Barbarossa.” That made it an important trade city. If you check out Hamburg’s coat of arms today, it still carries the same style and the red color you see throughout the city, just like the blue in Munich.

So while Munich was ruled by a single dynasty for centuries, Hamburg was more independent and focused on trade. I believe this played a big role in how the two cities developed. A city ruled by one family means power and money were more centralized. That can lead to big, impressive projects, but it also means the city grows in the direction that one ruling power chooses. A free trade city like Hamburg, on the other hand, had power and wealth spread out among merchants. That means more voices in the room and more variety in how the city grew.

There are also clear religious differences. Both cities were Catholic until the 16th century, but during the Reformation, Hamburg became Protestant. You can feel that shift even today. In Munich, the churches are bigger and more detailed. In Hamburg, they’re simpler and more minimalist. When I visited the Alte Pinakothek museum in Munich, I was surprised by how many paintings were focused on the Holy Mary and Christ. Religion still seems to be part of daily life in Munich — you notice it especially when older locals greet you with “Grüß Gott.”

You can also see the wealth of the Wittelsbach family when you jump ahead to the 18th century and look at King Ludwig I of Bavaria. While walking around the city, his name kept coming up. From Ludwigstraße and Königsplat to the museums like the Alte Pinakothek and Glyptothek — many of these were created or shaped by him. The Egyptian artifacts at the State Museum also came from his personal collection. It’s hard to imagine these things existing without someone who had the money and the interest in art and culture. He also moved one of Bavaria’s oldest universities to Munich, which became LMU Munich. Today, it’s considered one of the best universities in Germany. I think it’s fair to say that without Ludwig I, Munich wouldn’t be as developed and rich in culture as it is today.

I also visited the Munich Residenz with its 130 rooms, where the Wittelsbachs lived, and the gardens of the Nymphenburg Palace, which served as their summer residence. I didn’t have time to go inside the palace, but the garden was beautiful. There were ducks, geese, and swans everywhere. The whole place felt very peaceful and well kept.

If I had to choose one word to describe Munich, I’d go with “wealth.” The wealth of the Wittelsbach dynasty and the way it shaped the city. That’s why I think you can’t really understand Munich without knowing this history — just like you can’t understand Hamburg without knowing about the Hanseatic League.

Nature

On the day I arrived in Munich, I went to the Isar River with my friend. I was really impressed by how clean the water was. Since it comes from melted snow in the Alps, you can actually see through the water — even the fish swimming inside. Maybe it’s not fair to compare it with the Elbe in Hamburg, but seeing such clear water was exciting for me. The flow of the river is also very fast. Of course, I should mention that the Elbe is much deeper than the Isar, so they are quite different in that sense.

After that, we went to the Englischer Garten. It’s a great place to walk, run, or cycle. It reminded me of Planten un Blomen in Hamburg. In the Englischer Garten, you can still follow the Isar River. Because the current is strong, it’s dangerous to swim there, but my friend told me that people do group activities like standing or sitting on logs and floating down the river. Sounds like a lot of fun.

I also visited the Olympiapark. If you go up the Olympiaberg, you get a great view of the city and see the Alps. It’s also a spot where people sometimes sit and listen to concerts at the Olympiastadion. The only thing that bothered me was the building with the O2 logo. I was surprised that the city allowed it. It really stands out and ruins the view a bit. I did a quick search and found out that after that building was built, Munich had a vote to stop any new buildings over 100 meters tall. I wish they could also do something about that building now.

From up there, you can really see how green Munich is. But while walking around the city, I also noticed several “naked streets,” as I like to call them — streets without any trees. These streets have buildings, sidewalks, and wide roads for cars, but no trees at all. That was a bit disappointing. I had the same feeling when I visited Stockholm. In Hamburg, this is less common. You can usually find trees on almost every street. I think this is really important because trees give shade and help cool the streets, which makes walking much easier. Even though it was only about 20°C, I sometimes felt really hot walking around in the sun.

Munich has many parks, but what makes it really special is the number of lakes nearby — like Starnberger See, Ammersee, and Tegernsee. You can reach most of them with just about an hour of train ride. You can also visit Garmisch-Partenkirchen and go up to Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. Since this was my first time in Munich, I decided to stay in the city, but I’m already planning a second visit to explore those places.

Even though Hamburg has the beautiful Alster Lake right in the center, it doesn’t offer as many nature spots nearby that you can reach within two hours. But at least there are lots of forests around the city, and the North Sea and the Baltic Sea are around an hour away by train. That’s something you don’t get in Munich.

Museums

When it comes to museums, Munich has a lot more than Hamburg, at least in terms of numbers. The wealth of the city definitely played a big role in building up that collection. During my trip, I visited six museums:

One thing I didn’t know before buying the tickets is that some museums only charge €1 for entry on Sundays. I really liked that idea, and I hope Hamburg introduces something similar.

I also wanted to visit the Deutsches Museum, but since it’s quite large, I decided to skip it this time and focus on smaller museums so I could see more. I’ll definitely visit it during my second trip.

Even though Munich has more museums overall, I find the ones in Hamburg more interesting in terms of variety, at least for my personal taste. I’m thinking about places like Miniatur Wunderland, the International Maritime Museum, and Museum der Arbeit. In Munich, the paintings at the Alte Pinakothek were impressive from a technical point of view, but after a while, I got a bit bored — around 80% of them were focused on the Holy Mary and Christ. On the other hand, I really enjoyed the Residenz and the Egyptian Museum. They were more engaging for me and had a better mix of history and culture.

City Life

In general, I found Munich to be a very walkable city. The public transportation was also really good, and unlike Hamburg, it has a tram system. I actually enjoy riding trams because they move slower than the U-Bahn, so you can look around and see more of the city. On the downside, I find the tram noise and overhead cables a bit annoying. When I was in Lisbon, the noise from the trams there was awful, but overall I still think trams are an important part of good public transport.

There were two things about Munich’s transport system that surprised me. First, some train station escalators were double-sided. That means the escalator doesn’t have a fixed direction — when someone approaches, it starts moving in their direction, whether that’s up or down. I thought that was a pretty smart solution. The second thing was the buses with attachments. At first they looked strange, but I assume they add the extra section during rush hour to carry more people, and remove it later to save energy. That also seemed like a smart idea.

Aside from public transport, I felt Munich was a bit more car-centric than Hamburg. There were bike lanes, but not as many, and the ones I saw weren’t very noticeable. But I guess that makes sense, considering BMW is based in Munich. It was also the first time I saw those black-and-white striped prototype cars that car companies use for testing. Even without the logo, it was pretty obvious they were BMWs. The city also had a lot of long, wide streets, which I don’t like much. They’re harder to cross, reflect more heat, and just don’t look nice.

In terms of architecture, the city center had some impressive buildings — large and detailed. But the residential areas weren’t really my style. I think I’m just used to the brick expressionist buildings in Hamburg, which blend in nicely with the trees and feel more natural to me.

One thing I really noticed while walking around Munich was how crowded it felt. At first, I didn’t understand why — after all, Hamburg has a larger population. But then I checked the population density: Hamburg has around 2.600 people per square kilometer, while Munich has about 4.900. That explained the feeling. And if you also count the number of tourists visiting Munich, which is higher than in Hamburg, it makes even more sense. For me, this really matters. I don’t enjoy being in crowded places, and at times I felt a bit overwhelmed walking around. Luckily, the neighborhood where I was staying was calm and quiet.

One last thing I want to talk about is the food and beer. Some people don’t really like German food, but I’m not one of them. I actually enjoy trying different dishes. On my first day, I went to Haxnbauer in the city center and had Kalbshaxe (veal knuckle). It tasted really good, even though it was a bit expensive. Another day, I had Schnitzel at Andy’s Krablergarten, and I have to say, it was the best Schnitzel I’ve ever eaten.

When I drink beer, I usually go for Weißbier if they have it. Most of the time it comes in a bottle, but in Munich you get it fresh from the tap—and you can really taste the difference. I know there are a few good Bavarian restaurants in Hamburg, but after this trip, I think I’ll visit them more often.

Beyond traditional German food, I also had the chance to try something feels home. Thanks to a friend’s recommendation, I discovered a nice spot in Munich called Altın Dilim, which serves tasty baklava and other Turkish desserts. Most places that sell baklava in Germany tend to overdo the sugar, but this one struck a good balance and used good-quality pistachios. That said, I wouldn’t personally recommend their baklava. Instead, if you check it out, go for the Fıstık Sarma or Fıstıklı Kadayıf, those were excellent. One thing to keep in mind: the neighborhood where this shop is located felt quite different from the rest of Munich. So be ready for a bit of a cultural shift when you visit. Hopefully, I’ll be able to find a similar spot in Hamburg someday too.

Verdict

Overall, I liked Munich. Even though it’s a German city, during my time there, it felt like I was experiencing a different culture compared to Hamburg. The number of museums and the natural spots nearby definitely made me think about visiting again.

Living in Munich also comes with some clear advantages. You’re close to places like Switzerland, Austria, and Italy, which makes it easy to travel. From what I know, big tech companies like Apple, NVIDIA, and Google have offices there, and the startup scene is much stronger than in Hamburg. So, if you work in tech, there are definitely more opportunities.

That said, because of the cultural differences, the car-focused layout, and the higher population density, I don’t think I would enjoy living there — at least not as much as I enjoy Hamburg. But who knows where life will take me.


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Comments

  • By martin_a 2025-06-1814:415 reply

    As someone who has been to both Hamburg and Munich quite a few times I find them hard to compare. Each city has its own benefits and they are both great in their way.

    I think in the end it comes down to whether you like mountains more than harbors. ;-)

    Hamburg has its own charme with the harbor and the surrounding history of sailors, trade, red light districts, very old factories etc.

    Munich is much more polished but also kind of crammed. Cars everywhere, lots of traffic in the streets, yes, parks also, but... it's different.

    I like both cities and also beer from both cities. If you're not from Germany and decide to come over: Visit both of them and enjoy their uniqueness.

    • By fxj 2025-06-1919:152 reply

      Hamburg has a harbor and is at the riverside of a large stream so that makes it a complete different setup. Munich on the other hand still has a castle in the inner city (Residenz) and has many historical buildings. Hamburg has the status of a "state" in Germany while Munich is the capital of Bavaria (a state in Germany). Both cities are rich and the rich people also celebrate the weath in both cities. If you want a party city you better go to Berlin. (Arm aber sexy (Poor but sexy)) is their slogan.

      • By spankibalt 2025-06-203:182 reply

        > If you want a party city you better go to Berlin. (Arm aber sexy (Poor but sexy)) is their slogan.

        That's a lie. Berlin's slogan is "We are the Dogshit Capital of Europe".

        • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:31

          No, Berlin is just an open, uncleaned, public toilet, which hasnt been cleaned in the last 30 years.

        • By barrenko 2025-06-207:54

          That could be Bruxelles, but I've never lived in Berlin.

      • By patja 2025-06-1923:51

        Wasn't much of the historically significant architecture in Munich destroyed? How historically significant are restored buildings on sites that were razed or heavily damaged?

        Feels like going to a natural history museum and just seeing reproductions. Educational but not "real"

    • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:301 reply

      I have a hard time how people can talk about "own charme" and then naming the Red Light District of a city???

      Same with Amsterdam - Ive met several women in last 20+ years who said (somehow proudly) that they visited Amsterdam Red Light District.

      • By 42lux 2025-06-2015:431 reply

        Because it's mixed use there are usually the best or trendy bars in the city.

        • By ta12653421 2025-06-2016:02

          Thanks for the downvote :))

          Let me guess: You have never heard a womean talking about what she thinks about prostitution and "red light districts" if she can openly admid?

          Hint: 99.999% see it as body-slavery.

    • By cantalopes 2025-06-1822:022 reply

      I don't know what munich you were in, but it's one of the most uninviting, dirty and boring cities i've ever been to

      • By fxj 2025-06-1918:53

        Münchner here. It is a very touristy city. Dirty? not so much in comparison to other german cities like Cologne or Berlin. Uninviting and boring depends what you want to do. Nightlife in comparison to Berlin is poor. All the techno clubs are there. Octoberfest is a melting pot for the whole world. Americans and Australiens have a hard time digesting the amounts of beer.

      • By neuronic 2025-06-1921:281 reply

        I am from Munich but live in Hamburg. I have read all comments here and experienced people visiting and heckling Munich for decades now. People can talk a lot of shit about Munich, many things rightfully so.

        But dirty? I have literally never heard anyone say that. If you think Munich is dirty you must be from Singapore or Japan and never visited any other city on the planet.

        • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:32

          Esp. our public toilett, Berlin :)

    • By blackguardx 2025-06-1918:242 reply

      I went to Munich last September and didn't see any mountains from the city. I was very surprised because I flew direct from Denver and maps made it seem similarly situated. Munich and surrounding areas more closely resemble Wisconsin than anything else.

      • By fxj 2025-06-1918:48

        You can see them on sunny days when the wind blows from the south. So called "Föhn" weather.

      • By neuronic 2025-06-1921:25

        Actual mountains are about a 90min drive from Munich (towards Garmisch).

  • By adamcharnock 2025-06-1922:301 reply

    I've been living in Munich since Feb, I've visited Hamburg several times, and previously lived in London and (rural) Portugal. (I'm British)

    I'm really very surprised by some of the observations being made here, just because they are very contrary to my experience. Thoughts in no particular order:

    - Hamburg's road systems took some inspiration from those of LA. To me Hamburg seemed exceptionally road/car heavy. Munich in comparison seems much more sane and European.

    - The startup scene is great. I'm a member of the Werk1 co-working space there, and it is a huge and friendly community.

    - Munich drivers are really great with cyclists. I eBike everywhere, and never have a had any problems with a car endangering me. They are exceptionally good at giving way to anyone in the cycle lines (bike, eBike, or scooter)

    - For me it is a really very clean city.

    - The English Garden (bigger the Manhattan’s Central Park) is a place of absolute magic in the summer. Floating down the river through a forest in the middle of the city?! Amazing.

    - People are indeed super friendly when you talk to them. They don't do much needless smiling, but they are warm and friendly. (I'm white and look fairly presentable, and I cannot rule out that being a factor)

    - You drive to the Alps in 1h ish. True, you cannot see them from them from the city. But it not much time you can be at the top of a ski resort.

    - I think the comparison to Austin TX is very fair. Bavaria is conservative, Munich is not.

    - The U-Bahn is pretty reliable, the S-Bahn less so. I cycle or e-scooter everywhere, so don't really notice (and even when it rains it really isn't that bad, said as a Londoner).

    - I think there is more of a culture of having a stable job at large companies, perhaps in Germany in general (vs the UK). And I can see Munich feeling like 'a place people come to work' if you hang out in those groups. But I think there is is more available than just that.

    • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:34

      Local here.

      In which sector are you?

  • By amunozo 2025-06-1814:275 reply

    I did a research stay two summers ago in Munich and oh my God, it's the best place I've "lived" by far. So clean, so calm, yet so vibrant.

    • By mft_ 2025-06-1815:264 reply

      Interesting; from my experience, clean, calm, safe, and expensive, but absolutely not what I’d call vibrant. A lot of the time it feels flat and dull in comparison to other large cities - Berlin, London, Barcelona, etc.

      (My personal theory is that it’s just too rich and developed; you need cheap ‘edgy’ areas to support the people and business ideas that make places more interesting. Plus Bavarian culture is [in a nutshell] basically Catholic Churches and beer houses/gardens, so not hugely varied.)

      • By Barrin92 2025-06-1815:46

        >A lot of the time it feels flat and dull in comparison to other large cities [...] My personal theory is that it’s just too rich and developed; you need cheap ‘edgy’ areas

        As someone hailing from Cologne but with lots of friends in Munich, I tend to agree. Maybe it's the "Ruhrpott" dysfunction you're used to when you grew up in this part of Germany, but Munich always felt like a giant Apple Store, Hamburg does too but with a Protestant/Nordic spin instead of the posh Catholic south.

        I think also another factor is that Munich is monocentric, the urban core absorbed districts very quickly (most people wouldn't know it these days but Bavaria used to be very underdeveloped for a long time) whereas the Ruhr area or Berlin are much more decentralized urban agglomerations, growing over a longer time, making it a bit more chaotic and sprawlish and economically hit or miss.

      • By CGMthrowaway 2025-06-1816:37

        Idk about that. The Bavarian State Opera is very good, and all three(!) of Munich's three orchestras are world-class. Munich is a science and tech hub bringing interesting and important transients all the time. It has an amazing art collection, English Gardens that actually get used, and cultural and entertainment amenities that are well-spread across different parts of the city.

      • By fxj 2025-06-1919:02

        Munich has a smaller version of the Octoberfest all year around. Beer Gardens everywhere, many people wearing "Tracht". The tourists love it and the munich people love the money. It has some nice places like the English Garden or the River Side. Also the Farmers Market in the city centre is nice to hang around. It is not for the young crowd but more for the settled and wealthy ones. Very much like Zürich, but bigger. The mountains are close and the lakes around Munich are famous. Also many nice castles like Schloss Nymphenburg, the Residenz and of course the castle built by Ludwig II. Lots of historic buildings. The city was founded 1158 and parts of the old city still exist.

      • By amunozo 2025-06-1913:402 reply

        Well, you're right. I was comparing to places as clean, calm and safe as Munich. I only found that kind of peace in much smaller cities that were way less vibrant. I understand (and agree) with your second paragraph, but from all the "too rich and developed" places I've been, this is the most vibrant.

        Except for housing, I did not find it particularly expensive. I ate out at very nice places for less than 10€ a lot of times, ice creams were amazing and cheap, too. At least compared to Spain, I did not noticed a big difference, taking into account the wealth of the city.

        • By bgnn 2025-06-1920:211 reply

          Vienna is a better version of Munich for the things you seem to like. Have you been there?

          • By amunozo 2025-06-2013:30

            Long ago, when I was a teenager. I really want to go back because I have heard that, too. I heard kind of similar things about Zurich, which I've also been some time ago but only for a while. I will definitively visit both soon as I'm moving to Switzerland so it would be closer than from where I am now.

        • By PartiallyTyped 2025-06-206:521 reply

          When was that? Right now if I were to open uber eats, burgers cost on average across 10-15 stores about 15eur each, chips not included.

          I pay about 1k and live with roommates, and a high end salary here gets crushed to almost half after taxes and whatnot.

          • By amunozo 2025-06-2013:281 reply

            Summer 2023. I was in a student dorm so my rent was extremely cheap (400€). But I found plenty of foreign food (Korean, Taiwanese, Turkish) to eat for around 10€ in Maxvorstadt.

            • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:38

              there are a lot of small food locations, esp. in Maxvorstadt/Schwabing etc.; when i was a student, 17 years ago, i remmeber not cooking anything at home because on the other side of the street was a small thai-shop, where i could get a Curry for 4,90 EUR :)

    • By CGMthrowaway 2025-06-1816:273 reply

      Munich, Vienna, Budapest, Prague, Trieste, Krakow, even Innsbruck, Bratislava -

      I have traveled all over Europe, just about everywhere, and my favorite cities are consistently in the old Habsburg Realm.

      I don't know why but that's what they all have in common.

      • By ta12653421 2025-06-2015:38

        Because their history matches your attitude, maybe? :-D

      • By hellrich 2025-06-1816:351 reply

        Munich/Bavaria were not ruled by the Habsburgs, unless you want to count the whole Holy Roman Empire.

        • By CGMthrowaway 2025-06-1816:392 reply

          Yeah good point. Now I need to find a different commonality

          • By jackcosgrove 2025-06-1920:00

            I think "Habsburg" is a good enough descriptor. It encompasses the Catholic, northern-influenced culture (if not actually in the north like Trieste) as well as the baroque, counter Reformation-derived artistic styles.

          • By lostlogin 2025-06-1920:132 reply

            They had a couple of notable 20th century leaders.

            • By CGMthrowaway 2025-06-2012:44

              LOL good point but I don't think that's it, although maybe whatever reason why I like these places is part of the reason Nazis wanted them :)

            • By mistrial9 2025-06-1920:49

              see the movie The Sound of Music

      • By anyfoo 2025-06-1919:531 reply

        As someone from Munich, I often joke that if I fell unconscious and woke up in Vienna, it would take me a rather long time to figure out that I’m not in Munich.

        • By neuronic 2025-06-1921:29

          If in doubt just try to open Immoscout and rent an apartment.

    • By vasilzhigilei 2025-06-1814:43

      I lived in Munich for a month a few summers ago. While I enjoyed it, and it was definitely clean, I couldn't help but describe Munich as a "city where people go to work". Pleasant, but not exciting. Very walkable, though!

    • By mvdwoord 2025-06-1814:38

      I lived there for three years, about 10 years ago, and could not agree more. Highest quality of life I have experienced.

    • By j-krieger 2025-06-1922:13

      I live there. It's the best city I ever lived in. I just wish my rent wasn't so sky high.

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